A group of rocky islands, Los Testigos are an irresistible stopping point for cruisers on their way to Venezuela.

With the current insurance regulations regarding vessel location during the hurricane season, and the havoc created by Hurricane Ivan last September, Venezuela is becoming increasingly popular as a summer location. Along this route, Isla Margarita is the most popular stopover. Most cruisers have mixed emotions about traveling to Venezuela, with tales of piracy, boardings, and thefts publicized on the local radio nets. While it is true that care must be taken--as in any country with a high poverty level--we feel that the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. There’s no doubt that care must be taken in choosing your anchorages and securing your boat and dinghy at night or during your absence. After almost six years cruising in these waters we have never been mugged, had our boat boarded or been otherwise accosted.

When approaching from the north or coming east from Trinidad, Isla Margarita will most likely be your first destination. There’s also the option of a short layover at Las Islas Testigos, a small group of islands with beautiful sand beaches, clear waters which are inhabited by a few fishing families. The islands make for a delightful layover after the hustle and bustle, rain, humidity and mosquitoes found in Trindidad. From Los Testigos it is only a 40-mile downwind run to Isla Margarita.

Would you like your customs paperwork done in Spanish, English, French or German? Juan of Marina Juan stands ready to serve.

Located about 60 miles offshore from the Venezuela mainland, Margarita enjoys a much more enjoyable climate characterized by cooling trade winds and less rain and humidity than found on the mainland. The duty-free status of Margarita makes it even more alluring and for the cruising sailor this is definitely the place to stock up on fuel, food, booze, and wine.

The cruiser’s choice anchorage is Porlamar, a large open bay with an average of 15-foot depth and good holding if you avoid the grassy areas. At any given time there may be from 50 to 100 boats present. Upon arrival, you have only one choice for customs and immigration clearance. Juan Baro has successfully run Marina Juan for the past eight years. It’s not a marina in the true sense of the word, but instead a long pier/dinghy dock with shore side office and store. He offers a multitude of services from yacht clearances, laundry service and Internet access. He also arranges free bus trips several days a week to a couple of the large outlet type malls and supermarkets. Besides the free transportations, all of the purchases are loaded and returned to the harbor by truck. Despite the many hats he wears, Juan manages to maintain a good sense of humor and treats everyone as a long lost friend. The fact the he speaks Spanish, English, French and German certainly makes his job a little easier. For those requiring a marina to leave their boat, there is a fairly new facility adjacent to the Margarita Hilton Hotel between Porlamar and the capital of Pampatar. Boats anchor and med-tie to a concrete wall, but there is a considerable surge and the services are lacking. Potable water must be trucked in and the dirt driveways make for a dusty environment. The marina is a bit isolated and you still must return to Marina Juan for the Customs/Immigration clearance.

‘Diesel Man’ making the rounds through the anchorage, selling at prices that are ridiculously cheap.

One of the first pleasant surprises upon arrival in Venezuela is the dirt cheap price of fuel. After paying nearly $3.00 a gallon up island, you will pay about $.11 a gallon on the mainland. In Margarita it’s a bit of a hassle to use the local commercial fuel dock serval miles away, so an enterprising family by the name of "Diesel Man" offers diesel and gasoline deliveries to your boat at anchor for $.25 a gallon. They load an old fishing boat with 50-gallon drums and cruise around the anchorage making daily deliveries. Likewise, another entrepreneur by the name of "Water Baby" makes potable water deliveries to anchored boats for a nominal fee.

A short distance from Marina Jaun is VEMASCA, a chandlery run by Denis Laesker and Carlos Adams. It offers a nice stock of marine supplies and inflatable dinghies at duty-free prices and you can also have orders shipped in duty-free, with a small handling charge.

Dining out in Margarita can also be a treat. There’s a vast variety of restaurants fitting all tastes and at bargain prices. Venezuelan beef is excellent, particularly after the sorry excuse for beef found traveling down the Windward/Leeward island chain. Lomito is the cut of choice and prepared in a variety of ways. Of course, there is also an abundance of seafood, from lobster to fish and shellfish, which can be a special treat. Rice dishes such as arroz marisco and paella, loaded with seafood or meat and prepared for two persons are a Venezuelan specialty. For the scotch and whiskey drinkers out there, be prepared for a real treat. Venezuela is the highest consumer of scotch in South America and the prices are incredibly cheap, either in package stores or restaurants.

Shrimp? Lobster? Fish? Cerveza? The grueling decisions oceanfront dining.

After all the shopping is done, Margarita offers some unique tourist attractions. One of our favorites is catching a taxi to the old capital of Acension. This tranquil city is located in a mountainous area inland, and features some lovely Spanish colonial architecture, old plazas, and good restaurants. From Ascension it is a short taxi ride to the fishing village of Juangriego on the north shore. Although it has become quite a tourist localae, Juangriego remains a working fishing village with friendly locals and a very laid back feeling. The waterfront is lined with excellent seafood restaurants and during lobster season, the restaurants are packed with just-delivered lobsters, fresh from the nearby Los Testigos islands. With the many fishing boats anchored out or hauled on the beaches for unloading or repairs, the waterfront is a photographer’s delight. A few blocks away there is a small family-owned boatyard which has ben constructing these boats for generations. It only takes an hour or so to cover the entire town by foot and the the dilemma is choosing one of the many fine seafood restaurants that line the local waterfront. On the return trip to Porlamar, you may choose between a beautiful drive along the east coast with some wonderful bathing beaches, or through the inland valleys, with several charming historic villages to explore.

If you only plan to stop for a few days to provision, or if you plan to spend a few weeks or months, Margarita has a variety of attractions to make your stay worthwhile. It’s true the caution must be used when traveling to certain parts of the island or large cities, but by all means put Margarita down on the cruising itinerary.